Souffle Gelli Mashup Beads

Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.

Apply the Pearl Ex Gold and Super Copper to the stamp, using your finger. You do NOT have to cover the entire stamp, only the portion you wish to use. Lightly blow off any excess powder (facing AWAY from your worktable) The Pearl Ex will act as mold release. Lightly spray the remaining portion of unused stamp with water, shielding the Pearl Exed portion with your hand. (in bold so you don’t forget like I often do!)

Sheet the conditioned Sage Souffle through the Sculpey Clay Conditioning Machine on the next to widest setting. Trim to the size of the Pearl Exed area (if needed) and place face down on the stamp.

I put a sheet of paper on top of the clay sheet and put the whole thing on my cement floor (paper side down) and then step on the stamp from all 4 sides. Pick up the stamp and paper and gently peel the paper from the clay.

Prepare your gelli plate by removing the top protective cover. Dip a child’s watercolor brush into the lid of the Turquoise paint and quickly swirl around on the gelli plate. If you have too much paint, wipe some off with a baby wipe and continue. You only need a small amount of paint!

Place the sheet of clay face down on the gelli plate and lightly press with your hands. Alternately, put an index card on top of the clay sheet and rub it lightly. NOTE: you can repeat the process with other color of paint, such as gold if you wish. Remove the sheet of clay and IMMEDIATELY clean the gelli plate with a baby wipe. Clean the brush with the baby wipe as well.

Once the paint has dried (seconds really), place the sheet of clay on a tile surface and cut lengths of the clay about 1 inch wide. The pieces only need to be about 3 inches in length, just enough to wrap around the size wooden dowel you are using. You may want to use a piece of scrap clay to wrap around the dowel and measure so that you get maximum usage of your finished sheet of clay.

Gently wrap the strip of clay around the dowel, so that there is a slight overlap of the edges. Note that I used the rougher edge on the outside! Keep all those little scraps of clay as well! Repeat steps 6 and 7 to fill your dowel. Leave about 1 inch of room at one end and slightly more at the other end. NOTE: the clay does not have to be snug against the dowel! Easier to remove if it's a little loose.

The small Style n’ Detail ball too can be used to “rough up” any smooth cut edges on the overlap.

Roll out about half a block of the Bronze clay and texture it with your stamp (Pearl Ex is what was remaining on the stamp after stamping the Sage clay). Cut a 1 inch (ish) strip of this clay and lay your scraps along it as shown.

Wrap the Bronze bead around the wooden dowel like the Sage beads.

Bake as directed above, propping one end of the dowel on the bead baking rake and placing the other end on a small piece of cardboard. Make sure that the bottom bead is not touching the baking rack or tray!

When the beads have baked, but are still very warm, gently remove them from the dowel. If the beads cool too much and are difficult to remove, put them back in a preheated oven for about 5 minutes to warm them up.

Once the beads have actually cooled, use a small brush (and your finger) to apply the Agrax Earthshade. The paint will settle in all the cracks and crevices and I wipe it off the top painted areas with my finger

Paint the Typhus Corrosion paint on the inside of the bead and the outside edges, rubbing it with your finger to simulate dirt. (This paint has a texture to it that feels like dirt as well, so I usually rub my paint-laden finger over the outside a little to make that feel gritty as well.

Once the paints have dried, thread your finished beads onto your stringing cords and enjoy!

Getting StartedPolymer clay may stain. CLAY MAY DAMAGE UNPROTECTED FURNITURE OR FINISHED SURFACES. DO NOT USE polymer clay on unprotected surfaces. We recommend working on the Sculpey clay mat, wax paper, metal baking sheet, or disposable foil. Start with clean hands and work surface area. Knead clay until soft and smooth. For best results, clean your hands in between colors. Shape clay, pressing pieces together firmly. Bake on oven-proof glass or metal surface at 275°F (130 °C) for 30 minutes per ¼" (6 mm) thickness. For best baking results, use an oven thermometer. DO NOT USE MICROWAVE OVEN. DO NOT EXCEED THE ABOVE TEMPERATURE OR RECOMMENDED BAKING TIME. Wash hands after use. Baking should be completed by an adult.Begin by preheating oven to 275 °F (130 °C). Test temperature with oven thermometer for perfectly cured clay. For best results, condition all clay by running it through the Clay Conditioning Machine for several passes on the widest setting. Fold the clay in half after each pass and insert the fold side into the rollers first.

Apply the Pearl Ex Gold and Super Copper to the stamp, using your finger. You do NOT have to cover the entire stamp, only the portion you wish to use. Lightly blow off any excess powder (facing AWAY from your worktable) The Pearl Ex will act as mold release. Lightly spray the remaining portion of unused stamp with water, shielding the Pearl Exed portion with your hand. (in bold so you don’t forget like I often do!)

Sheet the conditioned Sage Souffle through the Sculpey Clay Conditioning Machine on the next to widest setting. Trim to the size of the Pearl Exed area (if needed) and place face down on the stamp.

I put a sheet of paper on top of the clay sheet and put the whole thing on my cement floor (paper side down) and then step on the stamp from all 4 sides. Pick up the stamp and paper and gently peel the paper from the clay.

Prepare your gelli plate by removing the top protective cover. Dip a child’s watercolor brush into the lid of the Turquoise paint and quickly swirl around on the gelli plate. If you have too much paint, wipe some off with a baby wipe and continue. You only need a small amount of paint!

Place the sheet of clay face down on the gelli plate and lightly press with your hands. Alternately, put an index card on top of the clay sheet and rub it lightly. NOTE: you can repeat the process with other color of paint, such as gold if you wish. Remove the sheet of clay and IMMEDIATELY clean the gelli plate with a baby wipe. Clean the brush with the baby wipe as well.

Once the paint has dried (seconds really), place the sheet of clay on a tile surface and cut lengths of the clay about 1 inch wide. The pieces only need to be about 3 inches in length, just enough to wrap around the size wooden dowel you are using. You may want to use a piece of scrap clay to wrap around the dowel and measure so that you get maximum usage of your finished sheet of clay.

Gently wrap the strip of clay around the dowel, so that there is a slight overlap of the edges. Note that I used the rougher edge on the outside! Keep all those little scraps of clay as well! Repeat steps 6 and 7 to fill your dowel. Leave about 1 inch of room at one end and slightly more at the other end. NOTE: the clay does not have to be snug against the dowel! Easier to remove if it's a little loose.

The small Style n’ Detail ball too can be used to “rough up” any smooth cut edges on the overlap.

Roll out about half a block of the Bronze clay and texture it with your stamp (Pearl Ex is what was remaining on the stamp after stamping the Sage clay). Cut a 1 inch (ish) strip of this clay and lay your scraps along it as shown.

Wrap the Bronze bead around the wooden dowel like the Sage beads.

Bake as directed above, propping one end of the dowel on the bead baking rake and placing the other end on a small piece of cardboard. Make sure that the bottom bead is not touching the baking rack or tray!

When the beads have baked, but are still very warm, gently remove them from the dowel. If the beads cool too much and are difficult to remove, put them back in a preheated oven for about 5 minutes to warm them up.

Once the beads have actually cooled, use a small brush (and your finger) to apply the Agrax Earthshade. The paint will settle in all the cracks and crevices and I wipe it off the top painted areas with my finger

Paint the Typhus Corrosion paint on the inside of the bead and the outside edges, rubbing it with your finger to simulate dirt. (This paint has a texture to it that feels like dirt as well, so I usually rub my paint-laden finger over the outside a little to make that feel gritty as well.

Once the paints have dried, thread your finished beads onto your stringing cords and enjoy!