Premo! Opal Clay Hollow Dome Pendant

Basic polymer clay techniques such as conditioning with a clay conditioning machine and basic tool use is helpful for this tutorial. Techniques you will learn in this tutorial are, hollow dome forming, basic sanding of polymer clay, sponge texturing, multiple bake construction, and also “Flawlessly Glazed” cabochons for use in your polymer clay projects (video). Hopefully you will also learn in this tutorial that starting at the beginning of a project with careful planning and execution throughout the process of creating will result in less finish work and a more professional look to your projects. Studio lighting conditions do not show the beautiful glow and sparkle of the Premo Opal Clay nor the sparkle of the sponge textured Premo Granite Pearl Clay in the step by step photos of this tutorial. Design by Mr. Jan  Montarse NOTES FROM THE ARTIST: Fresh soft clay is best for this tutorial. The stretching of hollow dome forming requires it. I use a small disposable foil mini loaf pan to cover the clay in all baking steps of this tutorial. It is mostly a preventative measure that I use for light colored and translucent clays. When baking items that have been “Flawlessly Glazed” it is necessary, you would be amazed what blows around in your oven that could stick to the glaze. Glaze that has been fully dried when baked will become sticky while hot from the oven, but will return to its shiny clear hard finish when fully cooled. If it becomes smudged while it is hot the only remedy is to re-sand and re-glaze. The Clay colors chosen for this project have specific properties that create the illusion of the Opal affect.  The translucent divides layers of opal Clay to give the illusion of depth it also has used as a top layer to seal in the opal flakes for a smooth surface. The white Clay helps reflect light back through the two other layers of clay adding to depth. Also the flat layers shaped into a dome adds to effect by bouncing light around from different angles. For my work surface, I typically work on inexpensive flexible cutting mats purchased in the kitchen section of the dollar store. I also use card stock or copy paper, patty paper or plastic deli sheets as my work surface. I do use a glass work surface when I want the clay sheet to stick firmly to the glass as I am working with it but in this tutorial peeling a sheet of clay that has been burnished smooth off of a sheet of glass with a clay blade can cause wrinkles on the surface of the clay sheet. Working on card stock or copy paper is an efficient no stick method but leaving polymer clay for an extended period of time will leach the plasticizers from the clay.